Words by Jacklyn Pham, Saigon Pagolac

Growing up, I watched my grandparents prepare for Tet, Lunar New Year. They would clean the house, to get rid of the bad energy and brighten it with flowers such as Red Gladiolas and Yellow Chrysanthemums and “Mai” flowers. They put up red decorations that symbolize good fortune and joy. On the eve of Tet, my grandmother prepares a feast to pray and welcome home our ancestors for the new year. The following morning, family members would visit with gifts and wish the elders good health and prosperity. The adults would hand out Li Xi (red envelopes stuffed with clean money) to the children. After brunch, we would play a game that has a similar take to roulette called Bau Cua Tom Ca. We would place money on a game board of six characters (deer, gourd, chicken, crab, shrimp, and fish) hoping that one of the three dice that the dealer threw would land and display our desired picture.

We want the first of the year to bring in happiness, laughter, and joy. The purpose of these celebrations on the first day of the new year is to set the tone for the remainder of the year. We celebrate with family and friends to avoid any stressful situations or mindset that could change that tone. Personally, I looked forward to Lunar New Year more than January 1. 

As I grew older, I began working alongside with my father. I watched him prepare for Tet for the business days before the actual celebration. A week before Lunar New Year’s Eve, we pray to Ong Tao Ve Troi, which is the kitchen god. I watch my father prepare an offering of fresh fruit, whole chicken, vegetables, rice, and other items to ensure Ong Tao travels safely to heaven. The significance of Ong Tao is he is the family messenger that provides a report to the heavens on the conduct of the blessings.  On the eve of Tet, we welcome back Ong Tao with a new spread of food. My father decorates the business with red lanterns, banner, traditional Tet flowers along with Yellow “Mai” flowers with hanging red envelopes. On Tet, our business is blessed by the traditional lions and Ong Dia with dragon dancing.

Tet is an important holiday for me. There are many traditions that I watched my family do as a child and I look forward to passing those traditions on to future generations. This year of the Ox will bring prosperity and success in a business along with wellness for all signs. I pray for all great success in 2021!

About Jacklyn Pham and Saigon Pagolac

Words by Amy C. Evans for Southern Foodways Alliance

Jacklyn Pham’s parents left Vietnam just before the Fall of Saigon in 1975. They landed in Washington, D.C., and her father got a job at a friend’s restaurant, where he worked as a cook.

In 1980, when Jacklyn was almost a year old, Long Pham relocated his family to Houston, where they had relatives and looked forward to being in a city with larger Vietnamese community. In 1989, Long opened his restaurant named for a pagoda overlooking a lake in Saigon. He chose a location at the west end of Bellaire Boulevard — Houston’s second Chinatown.

But when he opened Saigon Pagolac, his was one of only a few Vietnamese restaurants in that part of town. Twenty-five years later in 2014, this family-style restaurant tucked into the back of the Dynasty Mall is celebrated for its staying power, as well as its signature dish, The Seven Courses of Beef. All of their family-style dishes are do-it-yourself: cooked at the table and wrapped into spring rolls as you go.